🔗 Share this article

It's squash season and my favourite time of the year, especially for all the curries and other comfort food of fall. This Rajasthani sautéed dish is a regular in my kitchen, and the blend of ginger, chilli and palm sugar gives it a wonderful flavor harmony. This layered rice dish, meanwhile, is packed with whole spices, long-grain rice and ghee, which give so much more taste to the strata of rice and vegetables.

Squash and Mushroom Biryani

National curry week starts on October 6, so what better way to celebrate than with a rich, comforting, single-pot layered rice dish? If you like, make the vegetable curry component in advance and layer all components on the occasion you plan to eat.

Prep 20 min
Cook 2 hr
Yields 4

For the squash and mushroom gravy
4 tbsp ghee, or butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, lengthwise slit
5cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or kashmiri chilli powder
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cut into bite-sized pieces
300g button mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
400ml vegetable stock, or water
Salt, as needed
2 tbsp chopped coriander, for serving

For the rice
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

For the biryani
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, steeped in warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, to serve

Begin by preparing the gravy. Melt the clarified butter in a large, heavy-based saucepan on a medium heat, incorporate the cumin, bay leaves and clove spices, and fry for a few seconds. Stir in the onion slices and sauté, frequently turning, for 30-35 minutes, until softened. When the onions start to brown, remove half to a separate dish and set aside (you'll use them later during the layering).

Add the fresh chilies and ginger to the onions in pan, cook for a brief period, then stir in the tomato paste, chili powder, turmeric powder and coriander powder, and fry for a short while. Reduce to a low heat, stir in the yoghurt and cook for two minutes.

Add the squash and mushrooms, toss to cover in the spices, then fry for three minutes. Add the stock or water, and season to taste. Bring to a boil, then lower the temperature, place lid and simmer for 18-20 minutes, mixing midway to make sure nothing's stuck to the bottom of the pan. Garnish with fresh cilantro, then take off the stove.

Preheat the oven to moderately hot temperature. Rinse the basmati, then put it in a saucepan with a litre of water and the bay leaves, cardamom and seasoning. Heat to boiling, simmer for around ten minutes, until three-quarters cooked, then drain.

For assembling the layered dish, place a tablespoon of melted ghee in a casserole pot for which you have a tight-fitting lid. Spoon half the spiced vegetables, then top that with some the cooked grains. Add a portion the saffron infusion, ginger, mint, cardamom powder and spice blend, then top with the reserved fried onions. Layer with the rest of curry mixture, then spoon on the leftover grains. Top with the remaining ghee, saffron water, ginger, mint, cardamom powder and garam masala.

Seal with parchment, place lid securely, then bake on the middle shelf of the oven for about fifteen minutes, so all the flavours infuse the grains. Remove of the heat, allow to stand, still covered, for several minutes, then remove the lid and serve with yogurt sauce and salad.

Traditional Indian Achari Kaddu (Pumpkin with Spice Blend Stir-Fry)

The Indian word "pickling style" describes seasoning a dish using pickling spices, and the mix contains mustard, fennel seeds, fenugreek, cumin seeds, hing and kalonji, but they're not used only in pickles. The blend also appears in all manner of spiced dishes and sautéed preparations, like this recipe.

Preparation 10 min
Cooking 30 min
Yields 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, minced
750g squash flesh, or use pumpkin, cut into bite-sized pieces
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, as needed
1 tbsp jaggery, or dark brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Place the mustard, fenugreek and fennel in a mortar, crush coarsely, then set aside. Heat the cooking oil in a spacious skillet or Indian wok on a medium heat. Add the ground spices and the asafoetida, and fry, stirring, for a brief moment. Mix in the chopped ginger, cook for a minute, then add the squash, chili powder and turmeric, and sauté, stirring, for several additional minutes.

Add a small amount liquid to the pan, salt with seasoning to taste and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce the flame, and leave to cook for 20 minutes, mixing midway through. Add the jaggery, breaking up chunks a bit, then incorporate the dried mango, mix thoroughly and serve warm with chapatis or naan.